All good things.....

So , finally done. Cycle computer shows 2471 miles, back in Carlsbad now. Spent a few days up in the mountains, great but isolated and very hot.
Some good day rides and great climbs but a little frustrating after being on the move for so long. Decided to head back to coast and for a night before heading through San Diego to San Ysidro on the Mexican Border.

Awoke to cool morning but welcome after heat of mountains . The ride to the border passes through variety of SD neighbourhoods,Torrey Pines upmarket La Jolla, Mission Beach, Birdrock, through downtown area, past huge naval base and docks and out to Chula Vista. Reasonably easy to negotiate and lots of bike lanes. Felt pretty good to be riding out early morning past surfers and joggers, iPod on , knowing that ride would soon be complete. Did the oblig carb and coffee stop at great little cafe near the uni, (Vanilla roast, banana nut muffin). Eventually arrive at San Ysidro around 5pm, soon decided not a great idea to hang around for too long, lots of money changers and cheap stores, typical border town, atmosphere prob made worse by the fatal shooting of a mexican by US border guards yesterday (for throwing stones at them, go figure) Huge swathes of people passing across the border, v easy to get into Mexico, much slower getting back into USA so didn't want to get caught in the crowd and spend a couple of hours getting back into USA( had made decision a while ago not to go into Tijuana, too much bad press). Couple of oblig photos (looking miserable I note) and then turn around and start cycling North, need to find some accomo for the night so keen to leave before light fades. Eventually find great little b&b with friendly Filipino owners who are convinced that I must be in some sort of race and keep asking if I will be in the Olympics. Easier to smile and nod tbh. Had planned great celebration but settled for dominos pizza and couple of bottles of Sam Adams watching Batman Returns. Felt good.


So thats it. Back in hotel in Carlsbad, first non riding day since SF, Julia out next week. Time to put feet up. Thanks for all the messages of encouragement, hope you've enjoyed the blog. As they say out here 'what a trip'.









That's all folks ......



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Off route, recalculating

Sunset beach to Oceanside to Mount Palomar 14th-17th June

The ride from Sunset to Oceanside was pretty cool, in all senses of the word. The 'June Gloom' (marine mist ) is still with us which causes an amazing difference in temperatures over a relatively short distance (68 deg on the coast, 108 deg 60 miles inland). The route passed through some classic surf spots (Huntingdon Beach , Trestles) and some great Coastal resort towns like Laguna Beach. Eventually you pass through the Marine base at camp Pendleton, pre sept 11 you were allowed to ride all the way through, not any more so the diversion is the interstate (motorway) for 7 miles which is about as much fun as it sounds . Ended up in a cheap motel in Oceanside ( which is where the Race Across America, an ultra endurance bike race, starts this week so loads of bike activity going on.)

Pretty close to San Diego now, the end of the road as they say. Thing is I'm about a week early, i think the sketchy weather earlier in the trip meant more time on the bike and more miles. Had planned to ride out to Palm Springs via Mount Palomar ( a popular climb northeast of San Diego). Left Oceanside in a grey mist, 5 miles inland the sun appears and the temp begins to climb, ...... And climb, soon hits 82 as I pass through orange groves, a couple of Indian reservations and eventually the road also begins to climb.....and climb so about 40 miles in it's now around 90 and I'm at about 2500 ft of elevation . The phrase be careful what you wish for springs to mind as I sit on the porch in the shade of a general store in the middle of nowhere gulping water. The climb lasts about an hour and a half and I can feel the heat bouncing off the Tarmac . I bin the wildly optimistic plan of climbing Mount Palomar (another 3500 ft) today and feel a surge of relief to find a campsite. Quickly check in and take long cool shower. Lush that is. Speak to campsite owner about my palm springs plan and he raises an eyebrow, confirming my suspicions that it is a very stupid plan, dreamt up by someone who has forgotten what it's like cycling in extreme heat. Plan now binned (108 in Palm Springs yesterday). Woke up today with new plan to camp at summit of Mt Palomar tonight, pack up gear and set off, intend to take longer of two possible routes as it's less steep ( shorter route is 7 miles of steep switchbacks) ride the 12 miles to begin climb, stop, coffee and apple pie, start climb which is 14 miles , lowest gear, standing on pedals. Great views on the way up though and altitude keeps temps reasonable. Find coffee and muffin stop at top and then campsite ( bit remote, no showers, no one else there and warning notice about sightings of mountain lion) .........get back on bike and cycle back down mountain ( via steep route) to campsite I left this morning ( thus confirming suspicions of campsite owner that I am total idiot), put tent back up and hit the showers. Will stay here for a few days and do some day rides, the roads are good and some great climbs( featured in the Tour of California) .Will climb the switchbacks tomorrow sans 40lb of kit :) Plan to head back down to the coast next week to finish at Mexican border. Will post with update.



Ghost bike- touching tribute and salutary reminder to keep it safe.




Hot, damn hot





Today's climb,

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Tale of two cities

Malibu to Sunset Beach (59m)

Marine mist out in force this morning but still warm, made up for by complimentary continental breakfast , all a bit 'Cool Hand Luke but with pastries and coffee' Easy start to the ride straight onto the pch and then onto a bike path running along the beach, pretty much perfect riding , had arranged to pick up some new tyres at a large camping/bike store in Santa Monica where they let me change the tyres at the back of the shop. Also picked up new maps, camping gas and boil in the bags. Marine mist now gone so warm sunshine riding along the beach path next 20 miles . Pics below show difference with/without mist


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Amazing ride along LA's landmark beaches ( Venice, Manhatten, Redondo) all very cool as the bike path basically runs along the beach. Perfect really, stopped for coffee at a cafe overlooking beach.



Second half of ride real shit sandwich, hard stop start riding through LA urban sprawl, no shoulder, potholes, glass, loads of traffic, passing through pretty grim areas including huge refinery chocka with lorries . No choice but to crack on, pray no punctures and get through it. Eventually drop down into Seal beach and back to civilised riding, got a motel at Sunset Beach, nice little So Cal community with great beach and, funnily enough sunsets.





Bike Odyssey ?




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12th June : Carpinteria to Malibu (67m)

Had a pretty good ride today through a constantly changing landscape, from small Coastal surfer towns (Ventura), Venice like waterfront communities ( Oxnard ) , a Naval base (Port Heneume) a huge air force missile base at Point Magu, open farmland, dramatic Coastal cliffs ( are all cliffs coastal?) and finally into Malibu. You can tell Malibu is approaching as the number of expensive looking beachfront communities increase as well as the number of Porsches buzzing up and down the pacific coast highway. It's a great Coastal ride with views of the beaches all the way into Malibu. Unfortunately the camping opportunities are pretty much non existent from here down to San Diego so found a hotel tonight. Not cheap as you can imagine so will move on tomorrow. Delicious taco for dinner on the Pier watching the surfers catching lazy waves on longboards and fisherman on the pier (not catching anything).



Punctured on the way in to Malibu and have now really worn through rear tyres so need to find bike shop at some point today. Internet access has made some planning possible, had a conversation with a woman yesterday about biking opportunities around San Diego and there is a popular climb at Mount Palomar (6000ft) which looks good as well as a few good looking routes with both mountains and desert landscapes. The route south from here looks pretty cool (Venice beach, Santa Monica, Long Beach , Huntingdon) but will be a challenge negotiating the Southern LA sprawl. Weather still dominated by the 'June gloom' so cloudy a lot of the time but cool rather than cold and hot when the sun finally appears. Anyway off to breakfast now, coffee and carbs are waiting.


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'SoCal'

11 June Catchuma Lake to Carpintetia State Beach (52 m)

Had planned a short ride from Lake Cachuma to Santa Barbara and a couple of nights in a hotel didn't pan out that way. Riding was pretty easy today bar one 900 ft climb and getting lost once followed by a bit of back tracking. Arrived in Santa Barbara but didn't grab me tbh so pedalled through town, passed a Starbucks which meant a skype opportunity with Ju, just so happens she was at the annual Osullivan BBQ so was able to watch everyone at home drunk off their asses whilst I drank coffee and felt a long way from home. Eventually persuaded myself to get back on the road and figured I would check out the state beach campground or maybe do another 30 miles to Ventura and find a hotel . Turns out state beach campground is pretty cool, hooked up with a couple of guys (also cyclists)for a beer at a local micro brewery (had a delicious ipa brewed with east Kent hops no less , 7.5% abv though) so all in all a pretty good end to the day even though not as planned. Have been told that there isn't much in the way of good riding away from the coast which probably means a slow ride down to San Diego and figure out a plan when I'm there.
Still tempted by a detour up to Joshua tree though , we'll see
Highlight of the day: cold brewski ( sorry gully)



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Danish and coffee

Friday 10th June : Pismo Beach to Lake Cashuma (78m)

Felt knackered all morning not sure why but had craving for coffee and cake so prob not fuelled up properly , no great food options till Lompoc, Starbucks on left, pull in litre of bold blend and some major carb loading ( I could give up anytime I wanted, I choose muffins and coffee, it's not an addiction...... Wonder if you can get patches...) much better after lunch spinning up and down climbs for the next 40 miles.



Great route this pm, came inland through the Santa Ynez Valley ( great scenery, strong tailwind, sunshine) and through a town called Solvang (aka little Denmark ) lots of Danish bakeries, coffee houses, v quaint if maybe a bit Disney. Still impressed by the friendly nature of your average American, several conversations today about the trip , maybe a west coast thing ?( now being met with incredulity by most ) all beginning with a 'where you going/from?' . Also had an invitation to join a family for dinner tonight, felt a bit guilty passing it up. I'd like to think an American travelling the length of the UK would be met with the same warmth and hospitality but I'm not sure (that said there is a special place in hell reserved for the MF who buzzed me in their pick-up this morning with horn blaring) Lake cachuma is pretty spectacular, huge lake surrounded by hills. Another crazy Friday night for yours truly. Is it worrying that I'm beginning to find my tent quite homely ?

Highlight of the day, sunset over the lake, tent up and coffee in hand


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Here comes the sun

9th June :San Simeon to Oceana State Beach (57 m)

Quick departure from motel this morning, had to tear myself away from the complimentary breakfast, muffin count reaching dangerously high levels. Grey start to the day but on a mission to find someone to remove sheared rack bolt. Had been told by Bram yesterday about bike shop in Cambria,


soon found it and spoke go owner , used to work in engineering, built bikes , now runs a shop, couldn't script it better , half an hour later old bolt out, relief. Ride today was mainly along highway 1, tailwind and very sunny. Almost like I woke up in a different country, very similar landscape to southern Spain, low brown scrub hills, pine & eucalyptus trees but with wide American palm lined boulevards. Really feels like 'southern' california, busier roads, pools appearing in back gardens. Pretty easy riding meant arriving at campsite by late afternoon, making a welcome change from last few days. Got stung for 35 dollars for campsite as hiker/biker facility here no longer open( usually 5 bucks) Nice campsite though and not in a forest ! Good to have a drama free day today( found our from bike shop guy that highway 1 has been closed for three months because of the slide!) 1770 miles done btw. :)

Highlight of the day: riding Alongside the ocean, bike sorted, warm sun on road, and a taco for lunch.


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Mission acomplished

8th June Big Sur to San Simeon (66 miles)

Day didn't start too well when checking bike over this am to find the left hand bolt supporting rear rack had sheared so rack now being supported by about 1 mil of steel from beneath. Out with cable ties and fingers crossed. First 35 miles swooping descents and long climbs along Big Sur. Arrived at road block to find big landslide has closed road last 3 weeks. Detour is about 150 miles including 4 hour climb. Think I'll pass. Found out that the road workers knocked off at 8:30 so ( 5 hours away) sat in sunshine, read book and ate a cheeseburger. Plan is to wait till all workers have left and sneak through, hoping that road will be passable, that rack holds together and that batteries last as will be dark, what could possibly go wrong? Suprisingly all went ok. Bit of a challenge cycling Coastal cliff roads in the dark but doable. Only problem left was finding somewhere to sleep, did another 35 miles ( really surreal as road totally deserted,) clear night , tailwind and desire to get to bed meant miles flew by. Hadn't found camping ground by 10:40 so checked into cheap motel, gotta be happy with that.

Highlight of the day: Sat waiting on kerb outside cafe, start chatting to a guy (Bram, originally from norway)who recommends a bike shop in next town and gives me his mobile in case I get stuck or need somewhere to pitch my tent (kindness of strangers and all that)







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Big Sur Prize

Tue 7th June Santa Cruz to Big Sur (85 miles)

Felt tired first thing , prob due to yesterdays antics and late night. Weather sunny though and discovered that peanut butter makes excellent addition to oatmeal so not a bad start to the day. Riding through central California now beginning to see changes, more Spanish signs, palms beginning to appear, felt warmer today as well. Route went through huge strawberry fields so great summer smells. All going well until monterey , spent about an hour trying to find route south (there are stretches of highway 1 that won't allow bikes as too dangerous) ended up relying on the phones gps which took me up a huge climb through the skyline forest, eventually found route and promptly punctured, one my way an hour later ( bit of a mission changing tyre with rear facing dropouts) and began the Coastal section of route 1 that leads to Big Sur, amazing road that hugs the coast , lots of climbing through large dark clouds. Sun comes back out and tailwind kicks in , nice. Eventually arrive at Pfiffer big Sur state Pk around 730 so better than yest. Have now discovered that highway 1 ( only Coastal Rd ) is shut due to landslide about 30miles down the road. Alternative is big old climb across to next valley so will see how this shapes up tomorrow but am expecting big detour with lots or climbing. Oh good




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Business as usual

6th June: SF to Brighton beach state park (96 miles)

Finally left SF this afternoon at about one, bit late really considering a pretty big day mileage wise. Bit of a shock to the system as last 3 days cruising round SF ( rephrase?) drinking coffee and hanging out. Stopped for coffee today (& bran muffin natch) at about 4 ,realised still had 60 miles to do. Weather not good first 70 miles today, heavy, wet mist. Sun came out eventually and felt like summer again. Got lost after passing through Santa Cruz (dark by now of course) and couldn't find state park, eventually found someone who gave directions and rolled into bike camp just after 10. Also had iPhone jump out of cradle at high speed and bounce down the road in the dark, amazingly, relatively unscathed, props to Mr Jobs. Final insult of the day was seeing a racoon run off with my last bar of granola whilst I put
tent up . Ho hum

Highlight of the day, should be the arrival of proper long shadow summer evening sun as I roll into Santa Cruz, but think it was prob skyping Ju whilst enjoying damn fine coffee in SF this morning.



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R&R

So 3 days off the bike in SF. Great City, prob should have been to a couple of galleries ,seen a show maybe. Much better sitting around in coffee bars watching Life drift by, hanging out at the Rapha cycle club and catching up on news ( great coverage of Sarah (the gift that keeps on giving) Palins latest gaffe where she reinvents U.S history, priceless). Motel near union st, very encouraging to see Americans spending all day in bars along union st getting hammered, by 7 pm looked like Brighton on a Sat night, made me feel quite at home( later discovered that this weekend is a festival which took the shine off a bit , had hoped they did this every weekend) Met an old friend of Julia's and his Gf on sat night, few beers and meal at a German place (surprisingly good tbh, watched the Tri event on sun, and movies last night ( hangover 2, ditto) . Haircut first thing this am , now having coffee waiting for rain to ease ( fcast looking good tho) before heading off, hopefully Just beyond Santa Cruz today.


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Are you going to ......

2nd June Bodega to San Fransisco ( 80 miles)

Grey and cold start to the day but made bearable by addition of raisins to oatmeal this morning. Shared state park with Gunther, aged 70, from the Bay area last night , has about half the kit I do and a tiny tent with no mat ( he also has a mate cycling across the states aged 80, wife following in RV) chapeau ! Got warmer as day went on and rode through some pretty cool little towns on the way to SF, also passed through Fairfax and Marin County, the birthplace of mountain biking. Bit of a mission getting on to the Golden Gate Bridge without ending up on a four lane freeway but soon worked it out, loads of other bikes out today, felt pretty good rolling across such an iconic landmark tbh and felt pretty pleased with myself .Nice route along the waterfront watching the kite surfers and windsurfers into fishermans wharf for couple of hotel nights( already eaten too much Thai food lying in bed watching HBO) real contrast to the usual. Few chores tomorrow (laundrette priority , I think people are edging away from me).

Highlight of the day? Gotta be rolling across the Golden Gate, sun shining , hotel awaiting,


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Days like these......

1 June (52 miles)
Erm... To Bodega Dunes


Not a promising start, rained hard most of the night and into the morning , breakfast in the tent before a quick pack up and off in hammering rain. Ten mins into ride and sun appears, peel of waterproof layers, stop for coffee and blueberry muffin, soak up rays on storefront porch, lush.


Sun stays out rest of day and no wind; result ! Riding today along Sonoma coast,( just north of San Fran) perfect scenery , soaring cliffs and sparkling Pacific. Roadside covered in wild flowers,smell fantastic after night of rain,


stopped a couple of times for coffee and to soak up some rays. Have noticed lots of birds of prey along the coast which look pretty amazing soaring overhead, discovered today they are called 'Turkey Buzzards', bit of a let down tbh. To be fair they are pretty ugly up close. Ended up in state park in sand dunes early enough to get tent up and dried out. Great day all in all, felt like last couple of days have been about getting to a destination , today was back to the ride so happy to have mojo back.Excited about San Fran, which could be doable tomorrow, will really feel like a milestone from Vancouver. Then on to Southern California. Highlight of the day, stretching out on warm porch , sun on tired legs, coffee in hand , bliss.


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Getting there

31st May

Shortish day today, lots of gradient along highway 1 including a killer 20% incline. Pretty tired and headwind feels like riding with brakes on. Happy to stop at state park 50 miles in. Good weather today, hot shower, chilli & beans for tea around the campfire ( thought I'd better show New Yorker Dan how it's done, got blazing fire started, Dan returned as I was banging flaming log against tree trying to put it out. He didn't say anything ) . Nice enough hiker / biker site, bit muddy, plenty of racoons so food in bear box. Pretty easy day tomorrow, maybe one more after that then San Fran, maybe take couple days out.


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What goes up.....

30 May (Memorial Day)
Can't remember state park to Van Damme State Park (75 miles)

Day started well, great cafe on route (apple bran muffin and house blend) met kiwi and her son riding north so traded some camping recommends . First 15 miles fine , next 25 climbing switchbacks and fast descents, either doing 5 or 35 mph. Really begin to feel the 40lb of kit on back of bike on days like today. Finally made it back to ocean side of route ( bit glad to be out of redwood forests tbh, very picturesque etc but bit damp and dark to live in , don't know how elves do it) where remainder of day was on lumpy costal road with a headwind, lots more climbing basically. Pretty knackered when pulling into Starbucks in Fort Bragg ( house pike roast and pumpkin bread mmm...) got chatting to Dan (Surly LHT) and met up at state Pk (deserted) where he managed to start fire, pretty good going for a New Yorker , esp considering it's pissing down (again) . Feeling pretty tired now and knee playing up a bit, prob being out of saddle for a lot of the day so should be better tommorow. Remain convinced that Southern California will be warm so will push on south , also might visit Joshua Tree National Pk when I'm on way to San Diego , bit ahead of schedule and fancy riding in the desert. ( Deserts are warm right ?)




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Tree hugging

29 May Arcata to Richardson Grove State Park (83 miles)

Varied ride today, half on the freeway, had tailwind so racked up the miles and half on the Redwood Highway, miles of riding through ancient forest, some of the trees over 300 ft high and 2000 years old, mind boggles. Had lemon drizzle cake for lunch so pretty much perfect day all round. Now in state park full of Americans ( apart from hiker/biker area, just me here) enjoying the long , memorial day, weekend. Odd to feel more isolated when surrounded by others noise, will have to give myself good talking to.



Honey I shrunk the bike

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Arcata

28th May Elk Prairie to Arcata 51 miles

Shortish ride today as wanted to set up camp in the pm and let things dry out a bit ( very wet last night and first thing this morning) Arcata is great little town, Victorian buildings, town square , also university town ( Humboldt , liberal arts uni ) lots of quirky shops etc. Found great camping/bike shop as needed new cleats, camping gas, mozzie repellent and a pair of Ron hills for evening wear ( just like the 2 pairs I have at home) . Still cold at night but beans and chilli for tea so tent now quite warm. Looking forward to warmer weather further south. Bit ahead of schedule now so might try few nights in the desert when further south. Highlight of the day? Starting ride in torrential downpour, one hour later blue sky, steam on roads, feeling warm mmmm


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California ( dreaming, cation etc)

27 May: Gold Coast to Elk Prairie Nat Pk (90 miles)

Had a non riding day yesterday, much needed, skyped ju, sat around in boxers watching HBO and eating fruit and veg ( decided got to stop eating like a 12 year old at the cinema). Good move as weather yesterday was v bad . Brighter skies this morning and less wind, couple of landmarks, entered California and clocked 1000 miles , woo hoo ! . Coastline stunning this am




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And good to be in California , went through the giant redwood forest, big, really big trees, oldest living things on earth apparently, quite eerie cycling through them alone for miles, bit Tolkien like ( my precious) . All v impressive, obviously not a patch on the 50ft talking man and his blue ox that I came across a little later. Marajuana is legal for medical purposes in the state of California btw.




Now in state park, only one in the hiker/biker area so food stored in the bear box ( didn't think they had them in California , then saw state symbol)



Highlight of the day: Staring up at cathedral canopy of thousand year old trees, good to feel small sometimes.

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Headwind , bugger

25th May : Bandon to Gold Coast

Mixed bag today, lumpy ride with headwind most of the day ( meant to be a tailwind this time of year) , felt v tired at around 65 miles so found hotel, did some laundry, watched a movie, cranked heating up, lush. California tomorrow I think!

Highlight of the day, warmth at night

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Oh dear ( you'll see)

24 May 73 miles Florence to Brandon

Woke up to clear skies, happy days. Sipping my coffee sat outside tent this am ( Starbucks caramel house blend if you must know) and a deer runs full pelt through clearing in the forest ,


much to amusement of bearded companions. Quite an eventful day all round. Had lunch at drop in centre for people with learning difficulties ( hadn't intended to, looked like normal cafe from outside, guess fact that they only had one dish on menu was bit of a clue). Still got v good coffee and bread pudding and had conversation with a woman called beryl , who waved her arms in the air quite a lot, so that was nice. Also got chased by very large black American bulldog, bugger bolted for me just as I got to the beginning of large climb, didn't look back , flew up hill and shouted a lot ( seemed like good idea at the time) . Ride today was ok , bit of a headwind and clouded over by lunch so pretty cold. At state park in tent at mo and raining but dry and warm so can't complain. Highlight of the day, riding out this morning, sunshine , blue skies, heavy scent of pine forest listening to Noah and the Whale on iPod at full volume, sensory overload, magic.


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Could get used to this

23rd May Lincoln city to Florence (84 miles)

Day started well with blue skies and sunshine , cold last night though . Even when sunny it's only mid sixties at the mo. The great state of Oregon has designed pretty much the perfect bike route









along the coast with stunning views of the mighty pacific, up and down high coastal roads that sweep








through pine forests and through super quaint villages and towns full of character. You eventually run out of superlatives and photos don't do it justice, a pretty good day's ride all in all









Ended up in a state park just outside Florence. The 'hiker/biker' areas are set apart from the rest of the park, usually in the forest and v cheap at 5 bucks a night . As all are bikers lots of conversations about gear ratios, routes and the weather ( also a lot of beards) . As I lie in tent I can hear a guy playing the Uke and singing bluegrass numbers Pretty cool, and I had pork and beans for tea, proper rawhide me.

Highlight of the day, coffee , ice cream and oatmeal cookies for lunch, if any one of this holy trinity were uninvented I would come home tomorrow

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Century !

Sun 22nd May

Woke up and hadn't been murdered in the night which was excellent, new maple syrup flavoured instant oats were a hit so generally good start to the day, weather was a bit grey but not raining. Decided to follow the Oregon coast bike route which was a good choice, great climbs stunning views and fast descents.


Ended up clocking in at 104 miles which is first hundred of the trip, wasn't planned just felt good on the bike so happy to crack on. Stopped at a Starbucks and skyped with Julia which was great , seems like a while since we last spoke. Passed the Canadians en route so think they must have stopped earlier in the day . Speaking to the guy touring on the fixie last night, asked him how he managed fast downhills ( as you have to constantly pedal a fixed wheel) ' oh I just unclip and rest my feet on the handlebars' crazy, cranks spinning below at over 100 rpm, no way of standing for potholes and 30lb of luggage on the back. To complete the look he's sporting a large lord Kitchener moustache and wears a builders helmet to ride in, genius, here's to square pegs in round holes i say ! Clear sky tonight so down to 3 deg tonight, pretty cold in the tent but maybe sunny tomorrow ( currently in devils lake state park in Lincoln city) , spent evening chatting with Aussie and American cyclists, pretty good day all round . Highlight of the day , got to be chatting to the missus face to face via the iPhone in Starbucks , it's a small world.


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Oregon , oh (geddit?)

Sat 21st May

Crossed the state border this morning ( actually a 2 mile bridge across the Columbia River) had planned a hotel night but thought I,d save it for a rainy day (literally) . Am beginning to get into a rhythm I think, less concerned about where i'll be sleeping, weather etc; simple regime of eat, ride , sleep (that said camping in a state park tonight which I appear to be sharing with some permanent residents who live in a tent so hope they don't bring out the banjo and hunting knives any time soon). The Oregon coast is stunning,


amazing views of the pacific and super quaint weather boarded towns, weather a bit grey but only gets really cold at night. Oregonians genuinely friendly, stop for a coffee and you can pretty much guarantee a conversation in 5 mins, they are into bikes too. Met up with Canadians again today and discovered one of them is doing a tour fully laden on a fixie ( no gears, carrying about 30lb of gear, truly mad). Highlight of the day? Friendly locals , always wins hands down .


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Cape disappointment state park

Fri 20th May
Just about on the Oregon border now, 85 miles today, pretty easy going, road hugs the pacific coast so great wafts of briny sea air, felt quite zen like spinning along effortlessly mile after mile, met a Belgian guy going on the other direction and passed a group of Canadians, who are now camped at the same place , nice guys also going south so will prob bump into them along the route. Good to have a chat for longer than 5 mins, one of the challenges so far is the isolation of travelling alone through tracts of wilderness. Cape Disappointment State park is anything but btw , hot showers, deer wandering around , great sea views, lighthouse, all pretty great really. Highlight of the day, catching the mobile wood fired pizza hut before they closed , goats cheese special mmmmm


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Rolling, rolling, rolling

Thurs 19th May, longish day today, just over 80 miles, first 60 on long straight highway going west towards the pacific with a big old headwind, panniers acting like sails, just a case of head down and grinding out the miles, still yesterday was good tailwind so yin and yang. Currently in the 'Kila Hana' campground just outside Westport on the Pacific Coast, ( Kila Hana appears to be native American Indian for ' land of many mosquitoes that feast upon the flesh of foolish whiteman'). Highlight of the day? I'd love to say the first great view of the Pacific Ocean from American shores but if truth be told it was the coconut mocha frapppacino from Starbucks this afternoon


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A Washington post

Wed 18th May. Peered out of tent this am to see sunlight streaming through the trees, happy days:).




V cold in night but not a prob now. Had good day riding quiet roads through Olympic state park and along the hood Canal, Hugh waterway opposite Seattle , managed to find a state park at a place called Potlatch , as I lie in tent typing this a guy is playing harmonica round a campfire, all very wild west. Highlight of the day, fast 10 minute decent in the sunshine following long climb through Olympic SP , warm smell of pine in the air, lush. Nb no bears in Washington state


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What a difference a day makes

Tue 17th May Beautiful sunshine this morning, spent two nights in Victoria, the capital of BC, great colonial town , full of character, most importantly picked up some cold weather gear and ate Chinese food in bed, lush that is) . Cycled up the coast this morning,


felt a bit like being in a Canadian Tourism Advert, perfect traffic free cycle path, blue skies, great views, even saw an eagle, everybody smiling and saying hello (must be the change of weather but feels like I'm in the Truman show).


Cycled up to Sidney to catch ferry across US border, even US customs were friendly. Landed in the port of Anacortes and had about 40 miles to catch a final short ferry at 7:30. just about found a state park before nightfall and put tent up in the dark, currently sitting in the middle of a dense forest waiting for my boil in the bag trying not to think about the Blair witch project (kathmandu curry tonight mmmm), pretty cold but looking forward to bed socks. Highlight of the day, the ride this morning, textbook perfect,just hope I don't get eaten by a bear tonight



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There's a theme developing here

Now in Victoria, two long days of cycling behind me, around 160 miles or so. Sat pretty good, another cyclist on a ferry and commented on what I thought was a rather low snow line, ' yep been here thirty years, never know it this cold in May' good to know I thought. Met a couple of guys on the road and worked together for about 30 miles, thought I was doing pretty well given I'm hauling a lot of luggage , one of the guys then tells me they are about 200 k's into a 400k event, put me in my place. Tent and I got drenched due to a dumb pitching decision by yours truly. Today was tough, about
80 miles on the Trans Canadian Highway , sheeting down with rain for the entire journey and a lot of traffic travelling at speed, with some big climbs thrown in;all in prob one of my hardest cycling days to date. That said campsite I had planned to stay in was closed ( woo hoo!) so checked into a best western , lush that is. Shopping for long troos, thick socks and sleeping bag liner Tomorrow as it's like Brighton in November at the mo before heading into the USA .


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This is more like it (Fri 13th May)

Left porpoise bay early this am, very cold last night , slept in cycling gear, hat and had sleeping bag hood up,
rained a lot in the night but didn't get eaten by a bear which is good. Sunshine highway was sunny today so all is forgiven BC road naming department.


Had planned to catch the 1230 ferry
From Earls Cove to Saltery bay and actually arrived bang on time, much to the amazement of an old Canadian guy who had passed me on the road many miles earlier. The ferries in BC are excellent and the views of the sea and mountains spectacular ,


also serve good food. Got bibbed by Canadian lorry driver as I pulled legwarmers off at the side of the road( they do look like stockings I suppose ) which was pretty cool. Found nice little campsite in Powell River


and had a hot shower...lush that is. Cross the sound to Comox tomorrow and turn south , long way down as they say . Highlight of the day ...... Ice cream orieo cookie and coffee on the ferry watching the amazing scenery drift past



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Things can only get better ! (thur 12th May)

Left Vancouver this morning with fairly decent weather, found a camping superstore and stocked up on camping gas and freeze dried boil on the bag, got drenched leaving Vancouver , the highlight being stuck on a flyover in the torrential rain trying to locate the ferry port, oh and then got a flat. However sun soon came out and dried off on the short ferry to Langdale and the' Sunshine Coast' not sure what the literal translation of sunshine is in Canadian but given it's now about 5 degrees and raining as I lie on my tent in a sleeping bag fully dressed I think something has got lost somewhere, am now worried that I will spend the next 6 weeks obsessing about the weather and writing about little else. Am spending the night in porpoise bay provincial park and had hoped for a hot shower but given that I seem to be the only one here I think it may be a little early in the season.


Oh well forecast is better for tomorrow. Around 48 miles today , should be more tomorrow. Highlight of the day? Looking in my rear view mirror to see a brief glimpse of bright blue sky, snow capped mountains and a long straight empty highway.




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Off into the wild blue/grey yonder (is that really a word?)

Cycling North from Vancouver this am, weather not too bad, currently 6 deg but should warm up a bit , tipping down yesterday afternoon so happy it's not wet. Bit concerned that it was a little chilly last night (in the bedroom of the hotel), doesn't bode too well for camping, still shouldn't have too many problems finding space in a campsite :)





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So far so good, been at the airport nearly an hour and not lost anything !

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Location:Heathrow Airport

Link to my blog, cycling the Pacific Coast Highway

Off tomorrow, 1980 miles to go, currently raining and 9 degrees in Vancouver btw, living the dream....


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Nearly there

So this is home for the next 49 days.......


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Location:Hove actually