It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best since you have to sweat up hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate rememberance of a country you have driven throgh as you gain by riding a bicycle


Ernest Hemingway




Thursday, 2 June 2011

Are you going to ......

2nd June Bodega to San Fransisco ( 80 miles)

Grey and cold start to the day but made bearable by addition of raisins to oatmeal this morning. Shared state park with Gunther, aged 70, from the Bay area last night , has about half the kit I do and a tiny tent with no mat ( he also has a mate cycling across the states aged 80, wife following in RV) chapeau ! Got warmer as day went on and rode through some pretty cool little towns on the way to SF, also passed through Fairfax and Marin County, the birthplace of mountain biking. Bit of a mission getting on to the Golden Gate Bridge without ending up on a four lane freeway but soon worked it out, loads of other bikes out today, felt pretty good rolling across such an iconic landmark tbh and felt pretty pleased with myself .Nice route along the waterfront watching the kite surfers and windsurfers into fishermans wharf for couple of hotel nights( already eaten too much Thai food lying in bed watching HBO) real contrast to the usual. Few chores tomorrow (laundrette priority , I think people are edging away from me).

Highlight of the day? Gotta be rolling across the Golden Gate, sun shining , hotel awaiting,


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Days like these......

1 June (52 miles)
Erm... To Bodega Dunes


Not a promising start, rained hard most of the night and into the morning , breakfast in the tent before a quick pack up and off in hammering rain. Ten mins into ride and sun appears, peel of waterproof layers, stop for coffee and blueberry muffin, soak up rays on storefront porch, lush.


Sun stays out rest of day and no wind; result ! Riding today along Sonoma coast,( just north of San Fran) perfect scenery , soaring cliffs and sparkling Pacific. Roadside covered in wild flowers,smell fantastic after night of rain,


stopped a couple of times for coffee and to soak up some rays. Have noticed lots of birds of prey along the coast which look pretty amazing soaring overhead, discovered today they are called 'Turkey Buzzards', bit of a let down tbh. To be fair they are pretty ugly up close. Ended up in state park in sand dunes early enough to get tent up and dried out. Great day all in all, felt like last couple of days have been about getting to a destination , today was back to the ride so happy to have mojo back.Excited about San Fran, which could be doable tomorrow, will really feel like a milestone from Vancouver. Then on to Southern California. Highlight of the day, stretching out on warm porch , sun on tired legs, coffee in hand , bliss.


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Getting there

31st May

Shortish day today, lots of gradient along highway 1 including a killer 20% incline. Pretty tired and headwind feels like riding with brakes on. Happy to stop at state park 50 miles in. Good weather today, hot shower, chilli & beans for tea around the campfire ( thought I'd better show New Yorker Dan how it's done, got blazing fire started, Dan returned as I was banging flaming log against tree trying to put it out. He didn't say anything ) . Nice enough hiker / biker site, bit muddy, plenty of racoons so food in bear box. Pretty easy day tomorrow, maybe one more after that then San Fran, maybe take couple days out.


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Tuesday, 31 May 2011

What goes up.....

30 May (Memorial Day)
Can't remember state park to Van Damme State Park (75 miles)

Day started well, great cafe on route (apple bran muffin and house blend) met kiwi and her son riding north so traded some camping recommends . First 15 miles fine , next 25 climbing switchbacks and fast descents, either doing 5 or 35 mph. Really begin to feel the 40lb of kit on back of bike on days like today. Finally made it back to ocean side of route ( bit glad to be out of redwood forests tbh, very picturesque etc but bit damp and dark to live in , don't know how elves do it) where remainder of day was on lumpy costal road with a headwind, lots more climbing basically. Pretty knackered when pulling into Starbucks in Fort Bragg ( house pike roast and pumpkin bread mmm...) got chatting to Dan (Surly LHT) and met up at state Pk (deserted) where he managed to start fire, pretty good going for a New Yorker , esp considering it's pissing down (again) . Feeling pretty tired now and knee playing up a bit, prob being out of saddle for a lot of the day so should be better tommorow. Remain convinced that Southern California will be warm so will push on south , also might visit Joshua Tree National Pk when I'm on way to San Diego , bit ahead of schedule and fancy riding in the desert. ( Deserts are warm right ?)




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Monday, 30 May 2011

Tree hugging

29 May Arcata to Richardson Grove State Park (83 miles)

Varied ride today, half on the freeway, had tailwind so racked up the miles and half on the Redwood Highway, miles of riding through ancient forest, some of the trees over 300 ft high and 2000 years old, mind boggles. Had lemon drizzle cake for lunch so pretty much perfect day all round. Now in state park full of Americans ( apart from hiker/biker area, just me here) enjoying the long , memorial day, weekend. Odd to feel more isolated when surrounded by others noise, will have to give myself good talking to.



Honey I shrunk the bike

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Arcata

28th May Elk Prairie to Arcata 51 miles

Shortish ride today as wanted to set up camp in the pm and let things dry out a bit ( very wet last night and first thing this morning) Arcata is great little town, Victorian buildings, town square , also university town ( Humboldt , liberal arts uni ) lots of quirky shops etc. Found great camping/bike shop as needed new cleats, camping gas, mozzie repellent and a pair of Ron hills for evening wear ( just like the 2 pairs I have at home) . Still cold at night but beans and chilli for tea so tent now quite warm. Looking forward to warmer weather further south. Bit ahead of schedule now so might try few nights in the desert when further south. Highlight of the day? Starting ride in torrential downpour, one hour later blue sky, steam on roads, feeling warm mmmm


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California ( dreaming, cation etc)

27 May: Gold Coast to Elk Prairie Nat Pk (90 miles)

Had a non riding day yesterday, much needed, skyped ju, sat around in boxers watching HBO and eating fruit and veg ( decided got to stop eating like a 12 year old at the cinema). Good move as weather yesterday was v bad . Brighter skies this morning and less wind, couple of landmarks, entered California and clocked 1000 miles , woo hoo ! . Coastline stunning this am




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And good to be in California , went through the giant redwood forest, big, really big trees, oldest living things on earth apparently, quite eerie cycling through them alone for miles, bit Tolkien like ( my precious) . All v impressive, obviously not a patch on the 50ft talking man and his blue ox that I came across a little later. Marajuana is legal for medical purposes in the state of California btw.




Now in state park, only one in the hiker/biker area so food stored in the bear box ( didn't think they had them in California , then saw state symbol)



Highlight of the day: Staring up at cathedral canopy of thousand year old trees, good to feel small sometimes.

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